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Scotland » Building Your Own Conservatory » Windows
Building Warrant
Eaves Beams

The first items i fitted were the window sills, these sit directly on top of the outer blockwork with rear of the sill in line with the rear of the outer block, thus leaving a sill of 50mm sticking out from the blockwork. Initially i went for a test run by laying each sill approximately in position joining the corners (not siliconing at this point) so that i could confirm/check the dwarf wall had been constructed to exact size. This is the point where you find out if the dwarf wall that has been constructed is correct, mine was perfect. Next i seperated the corners and siliconed as required and re-aligned the sills. One of the sills was required to be cut (to allow for the doorway access), however at this point i left it uncut and running across the doorway gap, this helped with overall positioning, measuring and ensuring everything was square. Once the sills were located in their final positions a number of holes where drilled at the required spacing through the center of the slots running along each sill. Hammer fixings were used to hold the sills in place.
Note: ensure the fixings are located as close to the center of the groove as possible as this will ensure they do not obstruct the windows when they are slid into the groove.

 Sill on dwarfwall    Sill on dwarfwall
Next step was to fit the wall connector, a long piece of metal the height of your windows used to connect the windows to the existing property. This was pretty straight forward, again using hammer fixing to the ensure the connector was firmly attached. The windows were slid into the sills, each window has two small pieces of black plastic that tie into the groove on the sills.
Tip: rub some washing up liquid into groove to allow easier sliding of the window, also the windows are very stable once slid into position. I expected them to be extremely wobbly and had arranged for a number of friends to come round and hold the windows in place as they were inserted, most of them ended up drinking coffe and watching.
The windows are connected to each other (and the wall connectors) by metal connectors (i.e. metal strips the height of the windows), they are slid into the sides of the windows as they are being installed. Each side has an additional special adjustable connector included that allows for compensation of a few millimeters for any small measurement inaccuracies. The  adjustable connector is inserted in-between the last two windows on each side. The corner posts are slid into place once the  last window and first window of each side are in place, again attached to the windows using the metal connectors.
Once all the windows had been inserted i cut the sill that was across the doorway access making it possible to insert the door frame into the door space. This is a key stage, the door frame connectors provided allow for a small adjustment but the accuracy of the contruction are now tested/confirmed due to the doorway being the last space to be filled. My conservatory fitted together perfectly highlighting to me that it had been designed and manufactured to an extremely high specification/tolerance.
Tip: The windows and associated metal connectors are held in place by plastic gromits. These gromits also allow for the fixing of upvc lengths (supplied) to cover the metal connectors. Nows the time to fit these upvc strips as they can be slid into the gromits starting from the top of the windows. Again apply some washing up liquid to allow ease of installation. Doing this task before the roof is installed makes things much easier.

Disclaimer: This guide has been created to pass on personal experiences of building a conservatory. Planet Springwell takes no responsibility for any innacuracies. The information contained herein is used at the visitors own discretion. See below for complete 'Terms of use'. 

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